Tokyo has countless soba restaurants,from which 8 are currently awarded one Michelin star each. Muto soba-ya is one of them. Every morning, the chef – owner wakes up early to make his soba noodles, later in the day served hot or cold with some dashi dipping sauce and leeks. Here, simplicity is the key and knowing that the soba was prepared by someone who has dedicated all his life to this ancient craftsmanship, makes the dish even more special…
Crossing the threshold into Toru Okuda’s (7 Rue de la Trémoille 75008,Paris;tel.01 40 70 19 19) newest venture in Paris is like stepping into a hidden corner of Japan. Famous for his Michelin-starred Tokyo restaurants Ginza Okuda (2 stars) and Ginza Kojyu (3 stars), Okuda’s first international address is a stone’s throw from the Champs Elysées. Over a dozen Japanese craftsmen were brought by the Sugiyama Design agency to turn the former El Mansour restaurant in the 8th arrondissement into a traditional tea-house-inspired space where Okuda’s exquisite kaiseki menu can be enjoyed in quiet simplicity, just like in Japan.
Okuda has several seating options, including a traditional tatami room, but the best place is at the counter, where you can watch the master himself at work transforming the freshest ingredients into kaiseki masterpieces. In keeping with kaiseki tradition, Okuda has taken great pains to procure local produce and meats: certain vegetables come from Nantes-based farmer Olivier Durand (who even grows some Japanese varieties) and the beef comes from Hugo Desnoyer, the celebrated Parisian butcher of choice for Michelin-starred chefs.
Kaiseki literally means “stone in the bosom,” a reference to a practice monks had of tucking hot stones in their robes to ward off hunger pangs during morning and afternoon prayers. In the 16th century, kaiseki came to refer to the simple fare eaten after the tea ceremony and eventually evolved into a highly sophisticated cuisine perfected in Kyoto, the imperial city of the time and cradle of Japanese culture.
Kaiseki is served as a fixed, multi-course menu. Each course is prepared according to a different cooking technique—pickled, raw, grilled, fried, steamed—but without a lot of unnecessary manipulation or fancy additions. For this reason, the subtle flavors can be surprising and even a little disappointing to the Western kaiseki novice (see my review of Kikunoi in Kyoto for a personal example!). But with a bit of training and humble observation, it becomes a pleasure to appreciate the authentic flavors of a meticulously prepared cuisine.
The ingredients take center stage in this multi-act play: they must always be fresh, local and seasonal. It was easy to see the respect that Okuda-san paid to each one as he prepared them for me to savor. I particularly loved the clear broth with sea bream; the flavors were wonderfully defined. The red mullet tempura was some of the best I have ever had!
The Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetic of uncluttered beauty is also present in each tiny kaiseki artwork that arrives. Each element in the careful balance of texture, color and flavor, even the hand-crafted plate or bowl that cradles it, is the result of careful consideration; nothing is superfluous—even the red maple leaves on the soup cup remind us that we are eating an autumn meal.
Okuda-san will have to continue overseeing his restaurants in Japan between trips to Paris, but in his absence chef Shun Miyahara and the Japanese team will ensure that everything stays authentic and of the highest-quality.
I know where I’ll be going when I want to experience authentic Japanese cuisine in Paris…
Despite of the few movements and the few new entries (noticeably,Kakutou, the new sushi restaurant by Michelin starred kaiseki chef Toru Okuda) since my last revision in June, the three best sushi restaurants in Tokyo (therefore, in the world?) have kept their positions: Sushi Saitou as number 1, Miyakozushi- number 2 and Sawada- number 3. (Once again,Sukiyabashi Jiro is not even close to the first positions, in fact, it’s not even in the top 30…)
1. Sushi Saito (Sushi Saitou) (3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
2. Miyako sushi (Miyakozushi ) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
3. Sawada (2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
4. Sushi Ichikawa (1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
5. Hashiguchi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
6. Sushi Mizutani (3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
7. Harutaka (1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
8. Zoroku sushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13139640/ New entry
9. Sushi Oono http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
10. Sushi Ichiyanagi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13156961/ former Mao
11. Kozasa sushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
12. Sakae sushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
13. Sushi-sho http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
14. Mitani http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
15. Sushi Nanba http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
16. Sushi Teru http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
17. Sushi Nakamura (1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
18. Nishi Azabu Kamikura http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
19. Koyama sushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
20. Sushi Hashiguchi 鮨 橋口 http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
21. Sushi Garyuu http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
22. Sushi Yoshitake (3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
23.Sushi Sho Shingo http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130603/13155925/
New entry
24. Daisan Harumi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
25. Hayashi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
26.Kiyota sushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
27.Miyaha http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1314/A131401/13019499/
New entry
28. Sushi Kakutou http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13120243/
New entry, the third restaurant in Tokyo by Michelin starred chef Toru Okuda
29.Sushi Imamura (1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
30. Sushi Iwa (1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13146593/ New entry
Nobody knows Tokyo’s best foodies’ addresses better than Yukari Sakamoto,a Japanese- American chef and book author living in Tokyo with her husband and their small son. We met with Yukari at her Tsukiji market tour and became friends ever since. I asked Yukari to share her favorite ramen addresses in Tokyo – can’t wait to try them next time I am there!
Yukari Sakamoto at Tsukiji, photo taken by me
AFURI
The yuzu shio ramen is the signature dish at this brightly lit shop in the fashion district of Harajuku. Thin noodles are topped with char shu that is seared just before serving.
Shibuya-ku, Sendagaya 3-63-1
http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130601/13095244/
SAPPORO-YA
This basement dive has my favorite hiyashi chukka goma daré, or cold ramen with a sesame dressing, in the city. The noodles are served in a large, wide bowl and topped with tomatoes, bamboo shoots, cucumbers, pork, and more. It is the creamy and nutty sesame dressing that makes this dish irresistible.
Chuo-ku, Nihonbashi 3-3-5, B1
http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130202/13065864/
RAMEN-YA 69’N’ROLL ONE
This dish has been on my “Go To” list for years as it is often voted as the best bowl of ramen in Tokyo. Only problem is that the original shop is in a suburb that is far out of the city. But, a new shop recently opened in Akasaka. The chicken soup is exceptional and he uses Iberico pork for the topping.
Minato-ku, Akasaka 3-7-11
JANGARA RAMEN
I prefer lighter-style ramen, but when craving a rich, pork bones tonkotsu ramen I head straight to Jangara Ramen with shops around the city. The creamy broth is accented with mentaiko (spicy cod roe) and the noodles are thin and straight.
Shibuya-ku, Jingumae 1-13-21
http://www.kyusyujangara.co.jp/menu/
IVAN RAMEN
The shio (salt) ramen at Ivan Ramen is a perfectly balanced bowl. The noodles are made from scratch, the soup so good you want to drink it until it’s gone, and simple toppings but well executed. Be sure to get the pork and tomato rice.
Setagaya-ku, Minami Karasuyama 3-24-7
With 7 Chome Kyoboshi chef in Tokyo last August, who until recently was the only tempura chef in the world to hold 3 Michelin stars. Despite of him loosing the third star, I still think he is the one and only grand master of tempura. ( Albeit the most expensive!)
It’s been a while since I last updated the top 50 results of the best restaurants in Tokyo according to the Japanese language site Tabelog.com users. Click on continue reading below to see the freshly translated list.
Otherwise, my Tokyo reviews can be found here, while the online version of Michelin Japan 2014 guide – here
1. Kyo Aji (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13002887/
2. Takajo Kotobuki (Game) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131102/13003661/
3. Matsukawa (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13124391/
4. L’Osier (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13002607/
http://losier.shiseido.co.jp/e/
One of the most notable new entries is the last October’s reopening of L’Osier at the Shiseido building, this time with Olivier Chaignon as the executive chef. It has almost instantly soared to top position.
5. Apicius (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130102/13000145/
Climbed from number 16
6. Kawamura (Steakhouse) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13016506/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/toughest-reservation-world/
7. Sushi Saito (sushi,3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130802/13015251/http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120130109/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/the-ultimate-seafood-at-sushi-saito/
8. Den (Modern kaiseki,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1310/A131003/13046855/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140230/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/modern-kaiseki-den/
Fell from number 2
9. Florilege (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130603/13093814/
http://www.aoyama-florilege.jp/en/chef.html
10. L’Effervesence (French,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130602/13116356/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140324/
11. Les Saisons (French,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130102/13002294/
http://www.imperialhotel.co.jp/e/tokyo/restaurant/38
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140323/
Fell from number 4
12. Seika Kobayashi (Japanese, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13061473/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140207/
New entry
13. L’Equateur (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130702/13121866/
http://equa-teur.com/up/?page_id=489
14. Aronia de Takazawa (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130801/13019663/
http://www.aroniadetakazawa.com/
Climbed from number 41
15. Shinbashi Hoshino (Kaiseki, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13136847
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140190/
16. Chez Inno (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130202/13000510/
http://www.chezinno.jp/restaurant/inno_index.html
17. Miyakozushi (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130204/13018162/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/miyako-sushi-3-michelin-quality-minus-3-michelin-stars/
18. Ishikawa (creative kaiseki,3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130905/13004079/
http://www.kagurazaka-ishikawa.co.jp/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140101/
19. Muroi (Japanese, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13002563/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140282/
New entry
20. Fukuji (Fugu) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13004009/http://www.fukuji.jp/
21. Sawaichi Roppongi (Japanese) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13124236/
http://sawaichi.jp/
22. L’Ecrin (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13002444/
New entry
23. Quintessence (modern French/ kaiseki,3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1314/A131405/13159567/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140149/
Fell from number 3
24. Sushi Ichikawa (Sushi, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1317/A131715/13140619/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140106/
25. Torishiki (Yakitori,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131601/13041029/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140236/
26. Restaurant Bacar (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13059355/
http://www.restaurant-bacar.com/
27. La Tour D’Argent (French,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130803/13000288/
http://www.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo/restaurant/tour/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140232/
28. Morikawa (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1310/A131004/13110601/
29. Hashiguchi (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130801/13134517/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/sushi-hashiguchi/
30. Joel Robuchon (French, 3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130302/13009310/
http://www.robuchon.jp/joelrobuchon
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140187/
Fell from number 9
31. Sawada (Sushi,2*) (http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13001043/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140175/
32. Pellegrino (Italian,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130703/13072775/ New entry
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140273/
New entry
33. Kurogi (Japanese) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131101/13094789/
34. Kaiseki Yotsuba (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1319/A131906/13001131/
35. Harutaka (Sushi,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13032283/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140256/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/harutaka-sushi/
New entry
36. Kohaku (Modern Japanese,2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130905/13049130/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140168/
37. Mikawa Zezankyo (Tempura, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1313/A131303/13090866/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140278/
New entry
38. Sancular Bar http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130905/13112228/
39. Chawanbu (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130903/13122364/
40. Ginza Habsburg Veilchen ( Austrian) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13139747/
41. La FinS (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13139171/
New entry
42. Côte d’Or (French,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131602/13001681/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140167/
Fell from number 23
43. Sushi-sho (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130902/13000852/
New entry
44. Il Teatrino da Salone (Italian) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130703/13110652/
45. Lacherir (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131602/13035082/
46.Tsukushinoko (Izakaya) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1317/A131705/13019231/
New entry
47. La Chasse (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13025071/
New entry
48. Bingo http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130703/13016523/
49. Chatiere (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1313/A131303/13008017/
New entry
50. Yakitori Shinka (Yakitori) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13134990/
Out from top 50
Maison Aimee Vibert (French,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130302/13144931/
http://www.aimeevibert.com/aimee/english/index.html
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140130/
Teika Daipaiton (Chinese) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131105/13095915
http://www.teika-daipaiton.com/
Azumaya (Izakaya) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13126819/
Sushi Ono (sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13024790/
Mizutani sushi (Sushi, 3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13016524/
Crescent (French,2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1314/A131401/13001521/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120130076/
Nikuyama http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1320/A132001/13155313/
Ristorante Aso (Italian,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130303/13003356/
http://www.hiramatsu.co.jp/eng/restaurants/aso/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140096/
Les Creations de Narisawa ( French, 2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130603/13005423/
http://www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com/
Sakura Nabe (Horse meat) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1324/A132401/13107961
http://sakuranabe.com/kanemura/
Sanchakuya Taka ( Izakaya) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13008327/
7-rin (Yakiniku) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1324/A132401/13021180/
Kinriyuzan http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131602/13001625/
* Image © nasko – Fotolia.com
Out of all these most amazing steakhouses and teppanyaki restaurants in Tokyo, Dons de la Nature ( Kawai Building B1F, 1-7-6 Ginza,Chuo-ko,Tokyo; tel. 03- 3563-4129) is considered one of the best.
Tokyo chef and book author Yukari Sakamoto went there recently and kindly allowed me to republish her brilliant and very informative article.
“The assignment came from my boss in London, to seek out and eat the best steak in Tokyo. Tough assignment from Chowzter, but Shinji and I were up to the challenge. We were surprised when we called Dons de la Nature and got in within a few days. Seems that this restaurant is not yet on everyone’s radar.
The restaurant is located in an unassuming basement on the main Chuo Dori street in the Ginza shopping district. Walking into the corridor leading to the elevator we feel as though we are in the wrong spot, until we spot the window filled with wine bottles and the name of the restaurant. We arrive and the okami-san (female manager overlooking the front of the house) is very friendly and down to earth. She takes our jackets and brings us to our table.
This evening there are only two options of steak, a filet from Yonezawa in Yamagata and a sirloin from Saga. The sirloin is highly marbled and has more fat than meat. The filet, while meaty, still has a nice amount of shimofuri, the white fat that is flecked throughout the meat. The steak is cut into 400-gram portions and cooked in one piece before it is cut and shared, so couples must agree on the same cut. The sirloin looked too fatty so we agreed on the filet.
While the interior is tired and service is casual, the cuisine on the plate is taken very seriously. Chef Otsuka trained as a French chef and it is reflected in his carefully assembled salad topped with fresh crab legs, Japanese tiger prawn, and salmon. The consommé is classically made and I quickly forget about the environs and focus on the food.
The steaks start at about 30,000 JPY each ($300 USD) which is shared between two people. That is before soup and salad. There is also a course menu which starts at 21,000 JPY per person. We took wine by the glass but there is also a long list to choose from of mostly French wines.
The raising of kuroge wagyū (black-haired Japanese cattle) in Japan is very different from what you’ll find outside of Japan. The cows are grass-fed the first eight months of their lives. Each farmer selects the feed he believes to be best for the wagyū, such as soybeans or corn or straw. The last four months of their lives the cows are not fed straw anymore. We asked chef Otsuka if it is true that wagyū are fed beer and he said some places do, but that it is actually quite rare. But, he did confirm that wagyū are massaged daily. This is what helps to give the beef the shimofuri marbling that it is so famous for.
Chef Otsuka came to our table and talked about how he selects his wagyū. He only picks the best that he finds at the wholesale market so his inventory is constantly changing. He has no preferences or loyalties to any region, but will pick what is the best that day at the market.
The wagyū is first dry-aged for one month, increasing the natural umami in the meat. The second month it is wet-aged. At this point the fat in the meat turns into amino acids, adding even more umami to the meat. The aging is all done in-house.
Chef Otsuka could see that we were so curious about our dinner as we peppered him with questions and he generously invited us into his kitchen. The meat is skewered and then cooked in a kiln that was custom built for the sole purpose of grilling the meat with intense heat. The charcoal used at Dons de la Nature is made from Kinshu binchotan. Binchotan is a charcoal made from a Japanese oak tree. And, while many places may say that they use binchotan for grilling, the best quality binchotan is said to come from Kinshu, and the stock is very limited. Some binchotan is not even Japanese. We were told the binchotan can bring the oven to a temperature of upwards of 800 to 1000 degrees Centigrade.
Chef Otsuka seasons the wagyū with salt and pepper, skewers the steak, and then puts it into the kiln over the binchotan. He then closes the kiln and listens for the sound of the fat in the wagyū melting and falling onto the hot binchotan. The charcoal then starts to smoke, adding another layer of flavor to the steak. An Argentinian chef friend of mine recently told me about the seven ways to cook meat in Argentina and one of the methods was in a similar kiln. I wonder if this is where chef Otsuka came up with the idea.
The recommended serving for the steak is medium rare. The outside is just seared in the middle is still red. The steak is presented whole and then is cut at the table into two pieces for each person.
The steak is incredibly rich in umami. The contrast in texture from the crispy seared outside to the tender, rare inside is a treat. As the steak is marbled with fat it almost melts in your mouth. After my first bite “oh my God” came out of my mouth. I didn’t realize it until I heard the okami-san laughing. It was, hands down, the best steak I have ever had in my life.
In speaking with chef Otsuka after our meal he said what makes his steaks so unique is the searing in the custom-made kiln. Otsuka explained that most restaurants cook steak in a pan over a gas heater and that the sauté pan can only get up to about 250 degrees Centigrade. He also said that as wagyū is so fatty that when it is cooked in a pan that it is cooking in its own fat. And, that the searing directly over charcoals is the method that he thinks is ideal for Japanese beef.
This is what makes his steak the best in Tokyo, if not the best in the world.”
The original article can be found here
Images copyright @ Yukari Sakamoto
Cherry blossoms are not only viewed and admired, but also used for cooking during their blooming season in Japan. The very short and almost ephemeral life of cherry blossoms can be an embodiment of many things – changes in nature, fragility of our lives and also seasonality in cooking, for which Japanese cuisine is so well known for.
I couldn’t make it to Japan this spring, but was able to find a seller who could send me this sakura flavored tree cake from Nenrinya baumkuchen store in Tokyo. As one can guess from the name, originally a German cake, baumkuchen was introduced to Japan after the First World War by a confectioner Karl Joseph Wilhelm Juchheim.
The countless layers of the” light as air” chiffon cake go perfectly with the delicate cherry blossom flavor and can only be bought during the hanami (花見) season. ( Here, tasted with sencha Uji tea from Tawaracho town near Kyoto. This tea is subtle, fresh,slightly sweet and very similar to gyokuro.)
The father and the son – Jiro Ono and Yoshikazu Ono
My post about the sushi restaurant in Tokyo where Barack Obama and Shinzo Abe had a dinner last night. Sukiyabashi Jiro is one of the best sushi restaurants in Tokyo and,without any question, the most famous in the world thanks to the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi. According to the Wall Street Journal, the two heads of state had a presidential treatment as their dinner lasted for one and a half hour, 3 times longer than a meal normally lasts at Sukiyabashi Jiro. ( Most of the ” regular” people are out after 25-30 min…)
Those who have ever been eating out in Tokyo might know the difference between “Sukiyabashi Jiro Ginza” (Tsukamoto Sogyo Building, B1F. 4-2-15, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo ,tel. 03-3535-3600), 3 Michelin stars and “Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi” (2*). You can quite easily get a booking at the latter, while if you are gaijin, a foreigner who doesn’t speak Japanese, you have little chance of getting a reservation at Sukiyabashi Jiro Ginza. And you shouldn’t even try walking in as you will be most likely turned away.If you do want to eat sushi made by the hands of the “Japan’s living national treasure”, 86 year old sushi master Jiro Ono , you must speak Japanese or be accompanied by a fluent Japanese speaker. Claims of rude service and even foreigners discrimination at Sukiyabashi Jiro Ginza have been surfacing on the internet. Therefore i was a little nervous before going there, especially that the night before i read about Andy Hayler’s unfortunate experience. In fact, I was treated really nice and it was one of my best sushi experiences in Tokyo ever. But first of all, how i got the reservation. The lunch for one was reserved by my Japanese friend. As i understood, the biggest Sukiyabashi Jiro reservation person concern was that i might not show up.( Let’s be fair, this happens in Europe or the US, people just don’t bother to cancel their bookings.) Once my friend guaranteed via her company that the cost of the lunch (31 500 Yen, the same price as dinner ) would be covered anyway, i got the confirmation. Back to the basement next door to the Gap store in Ginza. When i entered the tiny, only ten places restaurant i was greeted by a lady ( who took my coat) and one of the Jiro Ono’s assistants. I was expecting icy expressions on everybody’s face, but that was not the case. The lady greeted me with a smile, so as the first assistant of Jiro Ono and Ono’s son Yoshikazu Ono. The first thing the assistant asked me was if there was something i don’t eat. I don’t eat eel, i said in my poor Japanese. Almost immediately after i got my first sushi (which i will describe later in this post). The intervals between each sushi piece were very short, 20 sushi meal took about half an hour. ( According to the Michelin Tokyo guide ” one shouldn’t be surprised to be finished within 30 minutes”). Jiro Ono’s work discipline is incredible, once he is behind the counter, he operates like a Swiss watch. At one point, the son of Jiro Ono asked me where i was from. I said that i am originally from Lithuania. “So you must speak Russian, then”, – he answered in Russian. Suddenly the communication got a lot easier as i do speak Russian a little bit. And Yoshikazu Ono san , and Jiro Ono san were relaxed, pleasant and eager to chat. They didn’t seem to be bothered at all about my basic Japanese or about me taking pictures of the sushi. Jiro Ono san even tried to place sushi in a way so it looks more flattering in front of the camera. Without any hesitation he agreed to take pictures together and before leaving personally gave me the little menu with all the fish i had. Speaking of the sushi, one thing that struck me was the sourness of the rice; it was much more vinegared than at other top Tokyo sushi restaurants I’ve been. The fish quality was amazing and I did eat the eel nigiri after all. Jiro san insisted i should try it and I just couldn’t say no to the legendary sushi master.( Actually i find eel very tasty, i don’t eat it purely because of psychological reasons.) Lunch at Sukiyabashi Jiro Ginza was a lifetime experience and i can’t wait to see “Jiro dreams of sushi” ,a documentary about the man who has been making sushi since he was nine yet never ceases to search for perfection. The omakase images 
Karei (flatfish) 
Hirame (fluke) 
Sumi-ika (cuttlefish) 
Buri (Japanese amberjack) 
Akami (top loin of Bluefin tuna) 
Chu-toro ( medium fatty tuna) 
Oo – toro (fatty tuna) 
Kohada (gizzard shad) 
Mushi awabi (steamed abalone) 
Aji (horse mackerel) 
Akagai (ark shell clam) 
Sayori (halfbeak) 
Kuruma-ebi (Japanese imperial prawn) 
Katsuo (skipjack tuna) 
Hamaguri (clam) 
Saba (blue mackerel) 
Uni (sea urchin) 
Kobashira (mactra clam) 
Ikura (salmon roe) 
Anago (salt water eel) 
Tamago (sweet egg omelette) 
Melon 
Below you can see my freshly compiled list of the top 50 results of the best restaurants in Tokyo according to the Japanese language site Tabelog.com users. The world’s most famous sushi restaurant Sukiyabashi Jiro with it’s 51st position has never been so high on this site.
Otherwise, my Tokyo reviews can be found here, while the online version of Michelin Japan 2014 guide – here
1. Kyo Aji (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
2. Matsukawa (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
3. Fukuji (Fugu) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 20
4. L’Osier (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://losier.shiseido.co.jp/
5. Sushi Saito (sushi,3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/
6. Seika Kobayashi (Japanese, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Previously number 12
7. L’Effervesence (French,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
8. L’Equateur (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://equa-teur.com/up/?page_
9. Tsujitome ( Kaiseki, 2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
New entry to Tabelog’s top 50
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
10. Kawamura (Steakhouse) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/
11. Miyakozushi (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/
Previously number 17
12. Florilege (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.aoyama-florilege.
13. Takajo Kotobuki (Game) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 3
14. Den (Modern kaiseki,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/
Previously number 8
15. Pellegrino (Italian,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Previously number 17
16.Les Saisons (French,1*)http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130102/13002294/
http://www.imperialhotel.co.
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Previously number 11
17. Morikawa (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 28
18. Hashiguchi (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/
Previously number 29
19. Apicius (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 5
20. Ishikawa (creative kaiseki,3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.kagurazaka-
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
21. Muroi (Japanese, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
22.Sushi Taira http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131602/13153414/
http://sushitaira.jp/
New entry to Tabelog’s top 50
23. Shinbashi Hoshino (Kaiseki, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Previously number 15
24. Kaiseki Yotsuba (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 34
25. Chez Inno (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.chezinno.jp/
Previously number 16
26. Restaurant Bacar (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.restaurant-bacar.
27. Sancular Bar http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 36
28. Kohaku (Modern Japanese,2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
29. Joel Robuchon (French, 3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.robuchon.jp/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
30. La Chasse (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 47
31. Mizutani sushi (Sushi, 3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Back to Tabelog’s top 50
32. Kurogi (Japanese) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
33. Torishiki (Yakitori,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Previously number 25
34. Côte d’Or (French,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 42
35. Les Creations de Narisawa ( French, 2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.narisawa-yoshihiro.
Back to Tabelog’s top 50
36. L’Ecrin (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 22
37. Mitani http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130902/13042204/
New to Tabelog’s top 50
38. Ginza Habsburg Veilchen ( Austrian) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
39. Sushi Nakamura (1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13003314/
New to Tabelog’s top 50
40. Aronia de Takazawa (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.aroniadetakazawa.
Previously number 14
41. Sushi Ichikawa (Sushi, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Previously number 24
42. Kinriyuzan http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Back to Tabelog’s top 50
43. Sawada (Sushi,2*) (http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Previously number 31
44. Chawanbu (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Previously number 39
45. Crown ( French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130201/13000007/
http://en.palacehoteltokyo.com/dining
New to Tabelog’s top 50
46. Sushi-sho (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
47. Harutaka (Sushi,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
http://www.luxeat.com/blog/
Previously number 35
48. La Tour D’Argent (French,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://www.newotani.co.jp/en/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Previously number 27
49. Esquisse (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13142530/
http://www.esquissetokyo.com/en/news.html
New to Tabelog’s top 50
50. Ginza Okamoto (Kaiseki, 2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13144115/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/0120140157/
New to Tabelog’s top 50
51. Sukiyabashi Jiro ( Sushi, 3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13002260/
http://www.sushi-jiro.jp/eng-index.html
First time so high on the Tabelog’s top restaurants results
Out from the top 50 since the last time I made the list
Sawaichi Roppongi (Japanese) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Quintessence (modern French/ kaiseki,3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Mikawa Zezankyo (Tempura, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
http://gm.gnavi.co.jp/shop/
Il Teatrino da Salone (Italian) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Lacherir (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Tsukushinoko (Izakaya) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Bingo http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Chatiere (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Yakitori Shinka (Yakitori) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/
Image © SeanPavonePhoto – Fotolia.com
If internet rumors can be trusted, Sukiyabashi Jiro was not the first choice for prime minister Abe and president Obama dinner. (See the Grub Street article here.) 2 Michelin starred tempura restaurant Kondo was, but it was fully booked and the chef refused to cancel any of his bookings that night in order to accommodate the Japanese government request (and get the worldwide publicity).
My recent encounter with similar behavior was when I ordered something from Japan and the parcel didn’t arrive on time (in fact, it was just two days late). The seller informed me herself that she had refunded the whole purchase. I even felt embarrassed as when a package is two days late in Europe, it’s not even considered “late”. And this is just one of many examples of the differences between Japanese and the rest of the world mentalities… (No tipping is probably the best known… ).
Whether it’s a sushi- ya, or tempura-ya, one of the main characteristics of Japanese restaurants is that a chef cooks food in front of you. Some products, like shrimps for example, are still moving moments away from cooking. There can’t be any hiding or cheating. At high end tempura restaurants food preparation show is particularly fun to watch. Only a narrow counter separates you from the kitchen.
A visit to Kondo (2*, Sakaguchi Bldg., 9F, 5-5-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo; tel.03-5568-092 ) was my second time at a high end tempura restaurant in Tokyo and my expectations were really high because the first time i tried tempura in Tokyo was at 7 Chome Kyoboshi two years ago. 7 Chome Kyoboshi, which now has 3 Michelin stars, is in a totally different league from any other tempura restaurant in the world.
Maybe I am wrong, but I heard that super fine tempura batter used by Shigeya Sakakibara of 7 Chome Kyoboshi is considered “Kyoto style”, while thicker batter is “Tokyo style”. The perfection created by the tempura master comes at a price. A menu costs 33,600 – 38,000 Yen per person ( Around 330- 370 euros!) that I didn’t really want to spend this time. Anyway, tempura omakase at Kondo was not as “out of this world” as at 7 Chome Kyoboshi, but still very good. One of the most interesting products deep fried, was sea urchin in shiso leaf.
The dinner menu costs from 10,500 to 17,850 Yen per person.The menu in the images is the one for 10,500
Shrimp heads ( Actually very good!)
Shrimp
Asparagus
Baby eggplant
Squid
Small onion
Sea urchin (It was extra)
Ten- cha- kakiage on a bowl of rice. Kakiage is a mixture of bits of scallops and honewort fried in batter. It’s served with special Japanese tea.
Slices of oranges for the dessert. These ones were definitely “out of this world”. Juicy,sweet, really fine oranges.
So on top of updating the 30 best Tokyo sushi restaurants list according to the Japanese language site http://tabelog.com/, this time I compiled a list of top 50. Once you go further down the results, you can also find some “off the beaten track”, more casual and more affordable sushi shops.(e.g. Sushi Dai, nearby the Tsukiji market, being the number 44 ).
Otherwise, there haven’t been that many dramatic movements except for the famous (or the infamous) Sukiyabashi Jiro Ginza, which is now the 11th best sushi restaurant in Tokyo according to Tabelog users.
My Tokyo reviews can be found here, while Michelin Japan 2014 online version – here…
…. and the full top 50 – after the jump.
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999 lunch ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999 lunch ￥5,000～￥5,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999 lunch ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥30,000～ lunch ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch￥1,000～￥1,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥30,000～ lunch ￥30,000～
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥1,000～￥1,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥30,000～
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999 lunch ￥6,000～￥7,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥8,000～￥9,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥30,000～ lunch ￥5,000～￥5,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999 lunch ￥8,000～￥9,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999 lunch ￥6,000～￥7,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999 lunch ￥5,000～￥5,999
dinner ￥8,000～￥9,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥1,000～￥1,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999 lunch ￥8,000～￥9,999
dinner ￥20,000～￥29,999 lunch ￥20,000～￥29,999
dinner ￥3,000～￥3,999 lunch ￥3,000～￥3,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner￥15,000～￥19,999 lunch ￥8,000～￥9,999
dinner ￥10,000～￥14,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999 lunch ￥8,000～￥9,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999
dinner ￥15,000～￥19,999
* In the image – buri ( Japanese amberjack) sushi by Jiro Ono
Matsukawa is an introduction only kaiseki restaurant, considered by many, notably tabelog.com users , as the best in Tokyo. A friend of mine invited me there, but had last minute plan changes and I ended up going to Matsukawa alone. He warned me about two things before transferring his reservation on my name. It’s matsutake season now in Japan, so “expect to pay at least 35 000 Yen” (I finally paid 45 000 Yen plus wine) and “they only take cash”.
Maybe it’s the jet lag, or just me too excited to go there, I did retain the first thing, but completely forgot about the second. At the end of my meal I faced one of those “only in Japan” awkward situations, where the chef himself was trying to swipe my credit card on his Iphone payment terminal (which he obviously rarely uses) and, finally, no one was sure if the payment worked or not, as I had an international phone number and the text message I was supposed to get, didn’t go through. ( I believe it’s fine as I haven’t heard from my hotel concierge yet!). Anyway, it was quite an embarrassing situation, especially that the chef was so humble and nice.
Matsukawa has 7 places at the counter and one private room ( I believe). Atmosphere wise, is a typical Japanese kaiseki restaurant really, without much noise and without any, what we would call here, in the West , “ambiance”.( Just to illustrate how high end Japanese restaurants can be, the older Japanese couple sitting on the other side of the counter didn’t say a word to each other the whole evening!)
Maybe because my first ever kaiseki experience at Kikunoi in Kyoto was unremarkable, I have never been a big fan of traditional kaiseki. If we forget all it’s philosophical and cultural meanings, traditional kaiseki can often be bland and boring. No matter how well and how much you know about Japanese culture, it’s not only about learning to appreciate the art, it’s a question of taste. Matsukawa follows the traditional Japanese kaiseki school, but his dishes flavors though are elevated to the whole new level .
First omakase dish- wonderful grilled lobster
Everyone seems to be an expert of good products nowadays, but Matsukawa-san products, like The Skinny Bib once described on his blog, are really “out of this world”. My omakase meal was a celebration of matsutake mushrooms. Amazing, big chunks of snow crab in dumplings with matsutake, yuzu peel and dashi broth ; Japanese beef with grilled matsutake mushrooms; wonderful al dente cold soba with grilled matsutake mushrooms shredding… Pine like tasting matsutake mushrooms harvest in Japan is only less than 1000 tones, thus, the Japanese matsutake are very expensive and this year cost almost $1000 a kilo. Their flavor is quite toned down and delicate. They are also valued for their texture, which is similar to the one of porcini.
Abalone with yuzu and rice
The two dishes I probably liked the least at Matsukawa were frozen squid with it’s liver still inside, and grilled ayu fish with it’s roe coming out. The first tasted like an unseasoned, frozen squid with it’s liver, nothing more. The tiny ayu fish (a very common dish at kaiseki restaurants in Japan) usually has very little meat and is supposed to be eaten whole. Maybe the bitter taste of the fish with the skin, innards and the bones is just not my thing. The meal ended with two desserts – world class matcha tea,nice and frothy served with yokan, and and some fruit – grapes and grapefruit jelly, served in grapefruit skin. Judging from the unique way those grapes tasted, I am pretty sure they were from one of those Tokyo’s exclusive fruit vendors, who sell their grapes for 10 000 Yen a vine…
Dashi broth with snow scrab dumplings. matsutake and yuzu zest
Uni and tai ( sea bream) sashimi
Squid with it’s liver
Grilled uni on lotus root
Ayu
Beef with grilled matsutake and gingko nuts
The beef was served with grilled figue
Kawahagi ( filefish) with daikon
Soba with grilled and shredded matsutake
Rice
Yokan
Matcha
Grapefruit jelly and grapes
Butagumi ( 2-24-9 Nishiazabu, Minato, Tokyo 106-0031, tel. +81 3-5466-6775 ), a tonkatsu paradise 5 minutes walk off the main Roppongi road, is where all the best pigs of Japan go when they die. Think of a double sided menu, all dedicated for pork fillets and sirloins from various Japanese regions. Good pork cutlet, served with it’s special sauce and shredded cabbage, can be a very satisfying dish, especially when the sirloin is this fine as the one from Kagoshima in the picture above. P.S. They say, Butagumi is the favorite place of David Chang…
Chef Oshima Manabu
Chef Oshima Manabu is one of the most charming and nicest chefs I’ve met in Tokyo. He runs steakhouse Shima (9〒103-0027 Tokyo, Chuo, Nihonbashi, 3−5−12, 日本橋MMビルB1;tel. +81 3-3271-7889), located in an office building basement and difficult to spot even when you have a precise map. Different than other steak powerhouses in Tokyo like Kawamura ( No one can’t get into it anyway) or Aragawa ( Can a piece of beef really taste like $700? ), you will not leave the restaurant feeling broke.
The restaurant behind that ordinary door in the basement seems more like a private club,whose members have been frequenting the place for years. Like Steve Plotnicki wrote in his review, Oshima-san doesn’t oversell his beef and that couldn’t be more true. 150g of beef from Wadoyama town was more than enough for me. Despite the beef, demonstrated before the grilling, was very marbled, the steak was not too fatty at all, it was juicy, tender and yes, some of the best beef I’ve had in my life. For the scallop with white asparagus starter, some wine, the steak and a sandwich ,which the chef gave me as a present to take away, I paid less than 20 000 Yen. I guess I could call that “reasonable” for a Tokyo steakhouse.
Mizutani (9F, Juno Ginza Seiwa Bldg, 8-7-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo; tel. 03-3573-5258) is undoubtedly one of the greatest sushi chefs in history. Some call his rice “mushy” or not al dente enough, but the disciple of the legendary Jiro Ono has really mastered the perfect rice. Very different than the rice at Sukiyabashi Jiro (which has very strong vinegar taste), Mizutani- san rice is delicate, quite soft and has just a slight touch of vinegar. As we all know, everyone in Tokyo can get excellent fish, but it’s the rice that makes the difference and is the signature of each chef.
Mizutani- san doesn’t allow photography at his restaurant ( since I was there last time, he moved to a new location in Ginza), so I can’t show how good his sushi looked, but I can tell you how good it tasted. Everything, from hirame (yellowtail), kohada( gizzard shad) and to “die for” sayori (needle fish,which was topped with sweet shrimp paste), to explosive awabi ( abalone) and uni sea urchin) from Hokkaido, that was sooo sweet and tasted like saffron, was the summum bonum of sushi. I don’t think it can get any better.
Zaiyu Hasegawa is a superstar among foreign travelers and chefs eating out in Tokyo. The reason why is simple – he and his wife Emi- san are friendly and accessible people. In the secretive city like Tokyo, where sometimes you have to be introduced or accompanied by a Japanese speaker in order to eat at some exclusive restaurant, being able to write an email yourself and reserve a table is quite a rare thing to do. (You can find Jimbocho Den contact details here.)
Monaka waffle with foie gras,chestnut paste and pickled cucumber filling
The other reason why is, of course,the culinary pleasure you get when dining at Jimbocho Den (2-2-32 Kandajinbocho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo). Zaiyu Hasegawa describes what he does as “home cooking”, but there is nothing amateur about the products and techniques he uses (far from that). Zaiyu -san is particularly inspired by popular culture, so don’t be surprised if your slowly cooked wagyu ( Japanese beef ) will be served in a plastic container, used for take aways in Japan ( like during my previous visit in 2013); or amazing sugar cane,black truffle and custard dessert will end up in a mock Starbucks or “Star Comebacks” cup.
Oyster in okura and dashi sauce
Salmon roe with rice cooked in dashi
Suzuki (seabass) sashimi in plum,dashi,vinegar and honey sauce
Kuroge wagyu, cooked in dashi for a very long time. Served with beets
20 different herbs and vegetables from the garden owned by chef’s sister. Pretty extraordinary.
Matsutake mushroom rice
White cheese mousse, Japanese persimmon and rum jelly
Cane sugar cooked for 8 hours, black truffles and custard pudding. ( Served in that mock Starbucks espresso cup). So intense and so good.
What makes a good sushi restaurant great? Excellent fish and seafood? Chef’s experience, skills and obsession with consistency? Takashi Saito seems to correspond all these criteria, but it’s much more than that. Saito-san hits the perfect gustative balance in each morsel he produces, taste and texture wise. Joel Robuchon called Sushi Saito “the best sushi restaurant in the world”, Michelin gave it 3 stars and Tabelog.com users voted it the best in Tokyo. What else?… This year Sushi Saito has moved to a new location in Roppongi Ark Hills, but the counter restaurant is still pocket size and still very hard to book. I’ve blogged about Sushi Saito 3 years ago, so this time I am posting pictures only.
Sushi Saito : 1F, Nihon Jitensha Kaikan, 1-9-15 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo; tel. 03-3589-4412 ( Access map)
Tai ( Red snapper)
Buri ( Japanese amberjack)
Kohada ( Gizzard shad)
Akami ( Leaner part of a tuna)
Chutoro ( Medium fatty tuna)
Otoro ( Fatty tuna)
Ika ( Squid)
Kuruma ebi ( Imperial prawn)
Shiro- ebi (Sweet baby shrimp)
Aji ( Japanese horse mackerel)
Katsuo ( Bonito)
Ikura ( Salmon roe)
Awabi ( Abalone)
Uni ( Sea urchin from Hokkaido and Nagasaki)
Tamago ( Omelette)
This was certainly not my favorite tempura I’ve ever had (my all time favorite is 7 Chome Kyoboshi) ,but still better than any tempura outside of Japan. I love how Japanese are able to perfectionize anything from growing melons to frying vegetables in some batter ,which actually end up tasting so good.
Mikawas Zezankyo: 1-3-1 Fukuzumi, Koto-ku, Tokyo
Kisa
Squid
Gingko nuts and uni and shiso leaves
Uni in shiso leaves
Matsutake
Green peppers
Eggplant
Baby scallops
Little drawing at the end of the meal by the head chef Tetsuya Saotome
Giant sweet beans for the dessert
It might sound ironic, but the most expensive part of bluefin tuna, nowadays served at the best sushi restaurants in Tokyo,New York of Los Angeles, was not considered valuable at all by the general Japanese population 50 or so years ago. According to Trevor Carson, the author of “The story of sushi: an unlikely saga of raw fish and rice”, otoro,or the fattiest part of the fish, was usually thrown away or given to cats. It’s not until Japanese airline cargo executives started promoting tuna in order to fill their planes up on the flights from East Coast US cities back to Tokyo, tuna became pricey delicacy.
Maguro, chutoro and otoro box at Harutaka : 3F, Ginza Kawabata Bldg, 8-5-8 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Crab flan with champignons
Beautifully delicate sea bream with cepes,noodles,leeks and light dashi soup
Red mullet tempura with Japanese biscuits powder.
Sea bass with Miso-Yuan,fried avocado,sweet potato and lemon
Rice with wild salmon, salmon roe and champignons
Three sorts of stewed peach with peach sorbet
Toru Okuda
The kitchen downstairs
Private tatami room
Chu-toro sushi at Sushi Saitou
Afuri ramen © Yukari Sakamoto
Saga sirloin on top and Yonezawa filet on the bottom
