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Ishikawa

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Ishikawa-san holding rice with hairy crab

Ishikawa-san holding rice with hairy crab

I am wrapping up my Tokyo series this time with Ishikawa, 3 Michelin starred kaiseki restaurant, located behind Bishamonten temple. When kaiseki style cooking is concerned, less is usually more. Chef Hideki ishikawa follows the traditional kaiseki rules by celebrating simplicity and seasonality. Michelin describes him as innovative, but the innovation here is minimal. Ishikawa is still pretty classic, but the ingredients are exquisite and the host himself is warm and charming.

Ishikawa: 5-37 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, tel. 03-5225-0173

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Ikura with yuzu zest

Ikura with yuzu zest

King fish tempura with gingko nuts ( this dish was supposed to be turtle tempura, but was replaced for me as I don't eat turtles..)

King fish tempura with gingko nuts ( this dish was supposed to be turtle tempura, but was replaced for me as I don’t eat turtles..)

Yuba dumpling, turnip, yuzu zest, matsutake. ( It was matsutake season, so the mushroom was present in all kaiseki restaurants menus)

Yuba dumpling, turnip, yuzu zest, matsutake. ( It was matsutake season, so the mushroom was present in all kaiseki restaurants menus)

Sea bream sashimi. What one cannot see from he pictures is the sublime quality of the ingredients. It's all about the ingredients in Japan.

Sea bream sashimi. What one cannot see from he pictures is the sublime quality of the ingredients. It’s all about the ingredients in Japan.

Abalone in abalone stock

Abalone in abalone stock

Grilled tilefish

Grilled tilefish

Beef tongue with tofu and eggplant

Beef tongue with tofu and eggplant

Golden eye snapper,tuber and konnyaku in dashi stock

Golden eye snapper,tuber and konnyaku in dashi stock

Rice with hairy crab from Hokkaido

Rice with hairy crab from Hokkaido

Pear sorbet with grapes and peach

Pear sorbet with grapes and peach

The very charming Hideki Ishikawa

The very charming Hideki Ishikawa


Photo report from The Araki,the world’s most expensive sushi-ya

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Mitsuhiro Araki and his wife. They moved to London for their daughter studies.

Mitsuhiro Araki and his wife. They moved to London because of  their daughter’s studies.

Mitsuhiro Araki is a three Michelin star sushi master from Tokyo, who has recently relocated to London. When you talk about the world’s best sushi chefs (Jiro Ono, Hachiro Mizutani, Takashi Saito to name a few), Araki would be one of them. He is especially famous for his knowledge of tuna. When time comes for nigiris with akami, chutoro or otoro, during the omakase meal, the sushi master unwraps a huge chunk of tuna and proudly poses for the photographs of the impressed diners. The only difference from when he used to operate in Tokyo, is that this belly of bluefin tuna comes from the coasts of Ireland, not Japan.

To compensate the lack of variety of clams, crustaceans and fish (that are usually  abundant at Tsukiji market in Tokyo, but not in Europe), black caviar and white Alba truffle is used at The Araki in London. This is quite a bold move for a traditional Edo-mae style sushi restaurant and if you ask me if such excess is necessary for good sushi, I would say no. But this what makes Araki justify the price of his omakase, which comes to 300 pounds + the service charge. With two glasses of moderately priced wine I paid 374 pounds in total, or almost 70 000 Japanese Yen. That would be more than double what one usually pays at the most expensive sushi shops in Tokyo, such as Sukiyabashi Jiro or Harutaka.

What really shines here though, are not the expensive ingredients used, but Mitsuhiro Araki’s unrivaled skills and expertise of sushi making. Without any doubts, he has no equals in Europe at the moment.

The Araki : 12 New Burlington Street, London W1S 3BF,tel.  020 7287 2481

The Araki in pictures…

Snapper sashimi

Sea bream from France. Not chewy, not “fishy”,pure and perfect appetite opener

Steamed abalone served in antique chinaware

Steamed abalone from France, served in antique chinaware

Shaving white truffles on tuna

Shaving white truffles on tuna tartare

Tuna tartare with truffles

Tuna tartare with truffles, soy sauce and mayonnaise, whisked in front of you. Despite of it’s extravagance, it was a very well balanced dish.

Crab with caviar

Crab with caviar

Mitsuhiro Araki slicing the tuna from Ireland

Mitsuhiro Araki slicing the tuna from Ireland

Grilled octopus

Grilled octopus

Akami (the leanest part of tuna) sushi. This was as perfect as it could get. The rice, that comes from Saitama prefecture, was perfectly balanced in vinegar and texture.

Akami (the leanest part of tuna) sushi. This was as perfect as it could get. The rice, that comes from Saitama prefecture, was perfectly balanced seasoning and texture wise.

Chutoro (medium fatty tuna) sushi. Mitsuhiro Araki has proved that even in Europe he can get excellent tuna.

Chutoro (medium fatty tuna) sushi

Grating fresh wasabi root

One of the assistants is grating fresh wasabi root

Otoro ( fatty tuna) sushi

Otoro ( fatty tuna) sushi

Scottish salmon sushi. It's kind of "neta" ( sushi topping) that you will never get at the Tokyo heavyweights. Salmon is not used by sushi chefs in Japan that much. I found it very good though. The salmon was briefly dipped in soy sauce before serving.

Scottish salmon sushi. It’s kind of “neta” ( sushi topping) that you will never get at the Tokyo heavyweights. Salmon is not used by sushi chefs in Japan that much. I found it very good though. The salmon was briefly dipped in soy sauce before serving.

Miso simmered mackerel. The rice was slightly warm too.

Seared mackerel. The rice was slightly warm too. Obviously the overall temperature was very important for the chef as the sushi was given directly to my fingers and the chef made sure I ate it quickly.

Squid, served in the same manner as the mackerel

Squid, served in the same manner as the mackerel. My photography skills with a left hand are obviously not that good.

"Vernis" (smooth clam) from France. Araki-san didn't know it's name and was pretty amused when I told him how it is called in France.

“Vernis” (smooth clam) from France. Araki-san didn’t know it’s name and was pretty amused when I told him how it is called in France.

The traditional "kuruma ebi" ( Imperial prawn) was replaced by langoustine from France. It's texture was much more delicate than Imperial prawn's. Personally I would have preferred the latter, but I guess it was hard to source in the UK.

The traditional “Kuruma ebi” ( Imperial prawn) was replaced by langoustine from France. It’s texture was much more delicate than Imperial prawn’s. Personally I would have preferred the latter, but I guess it is hard to source it in the UK.

Langoustine sushi

Langoustine sushi

To finish the meal - yellow tail roll. The rest of diners got eel sushi. ( I don't like eel..)

To finish the meal – yellowtail roll. The rest of the diners got eel sushi.

Tamago (omelette)with white truffles. This was the only course I didn't appreciate at all at The Araki. The omelette was too sweet and the white truffle didn't give much to the overall flavors.

Tamago (omelette)with white truffles. This was the only course I didn’t appreciate at all at The Araki. The omelette was too sweet and the white truffle didn’t give much to the overall flavors.

My bill for one person

My bill

 Mitsuhiro Araki

Mitsuhiro Araki

50 best Tokyo restaurants according to Tabelog users

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It’s been 8 months I didn’t post Tokyo’s best restaurants list, according to Japanese speaking website Tabelog.com.(By some considered more trustworthy than Michelin…) Hope you enjoy the freshly compiled list. It contains quite a few changes since last May.

1. Matsukawa (Kaiseki)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13124391/

http://www.luxeat.com/blog/introduction-only-matsukawa-2/

2. Sushi Saito (sushi,3 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130802/13015251

http://www.luxeat.com/blog/sushi-world/

http://www.luxeat.com/blog/the-ultimate-seafood-at-sushi-saito/

 3. L’Effervesence (French,2 Michelin stars)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130602/13116356/

 http://www.leffervescence.jp/

4. Kyo Aji (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13002887/

5. Kabuto (unagi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1305/A130501/13016660/

6. Fukuji (Fugu) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13004009/

http://www.fukuji.jp/

7. Florilege (French)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130603/13093814/

http://www.aoyama-florilege.jp/en/chef.html

8. Harutaka (Sushi,2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13032283/

9. L’Equateur (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130702/13121866/

http://equa-teur.com/up/?page_id=489

10. Kurogi (Japanese) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131101/13094789/

11. Esquisse (French,2 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13142530/

http://www.esquissetokyo.com/en/news.html

12. Ishikawa (creative kaiseki, 3 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130905/13004079/

http://www.kagurazaka-ishikawa.co.jp/

13. Quintessence ( French, 3 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1314/A131405/13159567/

14. Miyakozushi (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130204/13018162/

http://www.luxeat.com/blog/miyako-sushi-3-michelin-quality-minus-3-michelin-stars/

15. L’Osier  (French,2 Michelin stars)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13002607/

http://losier.shiseido.co.jp/e/

16. Restaurant Bacar (French)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13059355/

http://www.restaurant-bacar.com/

17. Joel Robuchon (French, 3*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130302/13009310/

http://www.robuchon.jp/joelrobuchon

18. Apicius (French)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130102/13000145/

http://www.apicius.co.jp/

19. Kawamura (Steakhouse) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13016506/

http://www.luxeat.com/blog/toughest-reservation-world/

20. Mitani http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130902/13042204/

21. Torishiki (Yakitori,1 Michelin star) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131601/13041029/

22. Seizan ( Japanese,2 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1314/A131402/13127807

23.Le Mange-Tout (French,2 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130905/13000469/

24.Yukimura (Kaiseki, 3 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130702/13005316/

25. Ginza Okamoto (Kaiseki, 2*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13144115/

26. Côte d’Or (French,1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131602/13001681/

27. Morikawa (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1310/A131004/13110601/

28. Sushi-sho (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130902/13000852/

29. Akasaka Eigetsu (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130801/13116523/

30. Mizutani sushi (Sushi, 2 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13016524

31. La Branche ( French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13002111/

32.  Den (Modern kaiseki,1 Michelin star) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1310/A131003/13046855/

http://www.luxeat.com/blog/modern-kaiseki-den/

33. Kohaku (Modern Japanese,2 Michelin stars)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130905/13049130/

34. Fiocchi ( Italian) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1318/A131814/13003427/

35. Takajo Kotobuki (Game) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131102/13003661/

36. Chez Inno (French)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130202/13000510/

http://www.chezinno.jp/restaurant/inno_index.html

37. Chef’s http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130402/13000884/

38. Higuchi (Japanese, 1 Michelin star) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130601/13001215/

39. Hashiguchi (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130801/13134517/

http://www.luxeat.com/blog/sushi-hashiguchi/

40. Toriki (Yakitori,1 Michelin star ) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1312/A131201/13026017/

41. Ryugin ( Modern kaiseki,3 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13001457/

http://www.luxeat.com/blog/nihonryori-ryugin/

42. L’Ecrin (French) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13002444/

43. Renge ( Shanghainese) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13098403/

44. Chawanbu (Kaiseki) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130903/13122364/

45. Miyaha (Sushi) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1314/A131401/13019499/

46. Sushi Yoshitake ( Sushi,3 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13024076/

47. Le Jeu de l’Assiette (French,1 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130303/13036041/

48. Antica Trattoria Nostalgica (Italian,1 Michelin star) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1317/A131701/13093159/

49. Shinka (Yakitori) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13134990/

50. Shinbashi Hoshino (Kaiseki, 1*) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13136847

50 best Tokyo sushi restaurants according to Tabelog.com users

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Recently compiled overall 50 best Tokyo restaurants list ( according to Tabelog.com users) can be viewed here

  1. Sushi Saito (3 Michelin stars)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130802/13015251/
  2. Harutaka (2 Michelin stars)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13032283/
  3. Mitani http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130902/13042204/
  4. Miyakozushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130204/13018162/
  5. Sushi-sho  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130902/13000852/
  6. Hashiguchi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130801/13134517/
  7. Miyaha http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1314/A131401/13019499/
  8. Sushi Ichiyanagi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13156961/
  9. Sushi Mizutani http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13016524/
  10. Yoshitake http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13024076/
  11. Sushi Tokami http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13155234/
  12. Daisan Harumi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13002140/
  13. Shinbashi Shimizu  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13002892/
  14. Sawada (2 Michelin stars)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13001043/
  15. Sushi Oono http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13024790/
  16. Uotoku http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1312/A131203/13017947/
  17. Sushi Nakamura http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13003314/
  18. Sushi Kanesaka (1 Michelin star) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13005003/
  19. Hayashi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1319/A131904/13070215/
  20. Ichikawa (1 Michelin star) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1317/A131715/13140619/
  21. Sukiyabashi Jiro (3 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13002260/
  22. Sushiya http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13147846/
  23. Tsuruhachi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1310/A131003/13000419/
  24. Sushi Nanba http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1319/A131905/13127515/
  25. Sushi Takahashi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13165933/
  26. Sushi Take http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13169506/
  27. Ginza Syo (?)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13090523/
  28. Sushi Tsu http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13061640/
  29. Kiyota http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13070238/
  30. Sushi Garyuu http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130903/13127957/
  31. Umi (2 Michelin stars)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130603/13001179/
  32. Kozasazushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13000569/
  33. Kozasa http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13004630/
  34. Kimura (2 Michelin stars) http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1317/A131708/13026584/
  35. Sushi Dai http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1313/A131301/13002388/
  36. Teruya http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130803/13136559/
  37. Sushi Takumi Shingo http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130603/13155925/
  38. Masuda http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1306/A130602/13164883/
  39. Sushi Imamura (1 Michelin star)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131602/13096905/
  40. Suzu http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130802/13024464/
  41. Zourokusushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130703/13160927/
  42. Bentenyama Miyako sushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131102/13003694/
  43. Sushisho Masa http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130703/13016512/
  44. Zorokusushi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13139640/
  45. Kagurazaka Sushi Rin http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130905/13153048/
  46. Itokenotsubo Stand Sushi Bar http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130203/13007674/
  47. Nishiazabu Ishi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13090566/
  48. Takumi Tatsuhiro http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130402/13086506/
  49. Iwa (1 Michelin star)  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13146593/
  50. Sushi Teru http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130903/13096927/

One more time about Shima

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Shima-san

Shima-san

Shima steakhouse chef owner Shima-san is one of the most well-travelled chefs I’ve met in Tokyo. He speaks good English and French as in the Seventies he used to work at Le Duc, which happens to be my favorite restaurant in Paris. Speaking of Shima’s-san steak, it would be my number one of all the steaks I’ve had in Tokyo this time. (Including the legendary Kawamura, the main purpose of my trip, about which I am posting later this week.) Even if Shima’s san beef ( which comes from Kyoto) looks as marbled as at other Tokyo’s top steakhouses, once it’s slowly cooked on the charcoal grill,the marbling disappears. You are served a perfect steak that is melting in your mouth, but still has a texture of a steak, not pure fat you can sometimes experience, when eating A5 grade wagyu in Japan.

Like last time, we got to take away a wagyu sandwich at the end of our meal , which might as well be the most luxurious doggy bag in the world.

Beef from Kyoto

Beef from Kyoto

Marinated salmom with some fennel

Marinated salmom with some fennel and capers

Preparing wagyu sandwiches for take away

Preparing wagyu sandwiches for the take away

"Doggy bags" ready to go

“Doggy bags” ready to go

And here is the best steak I've ever had

And here is the best steak I’ve ever had

Some fruit and ice cream to finish the meal

Some fruit and ice cream to finish the meal

7 chome Kyoboshi: tempura that has no equals

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Chestnut

Before I move on to all the new sushi shops I visited in Tokyo, I just have to share these few images from 7 chome Kyoboshi (see the full review here). Until recently it was the only tempura restaurant in the world to hold 3 Michelin stars, but this year it has mysteriously disappeared from the red guide.

Some people consider it’s not worth paying serious money for tempura omakase, but for me 7 chome Kyoboshi has the same level of craftsmanship as some of the Tokyo’s top  kaiseki places. 63 year old Shigeya Sakakibara has mastered vegetables and fish frying to perfection. His tempura batter is so thin and so fine, it is almost transparent, and, Sakakibara-san himself is a very cool personnage. I’ve never seen his 10 seat counter restaurant in Ginza full –  it could be, I guess, if the prices were slightly adjusted and if Sakakibara-san cared… This time he introduced us to some totally new ingredients,such as chestnut and waguy, never seen before at any tempura restaurant in Tokyo…

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Croque-monsieur with shrimp

Lotus root

Lotus root

Fava beans

Fava beans

Mild tasting Japanese onion

Mild tasting Japanese onion

Whiting

Japanese whiting

Baby corn

Baby corn

Shirao fish

Shirao fish

Shrimp

Shrimp

Wagyu

Wagyu

Musk melon

Musk melon

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Shigeya Sakakibara

Shigeya Sakakibara

Sushi-ya

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Takao Ishiyama

Takao Ishiyama

28 year old Takao Ishiyama is the new darling of bloggers, instagramers and Tokyo sushi connaisseurs. His 8 seat sushi shop in Ginza is called Sushi-ya, which literally means “sushi shop” in Japanese. Apparently Ishiyama-san used to work at Kanesaka and Saito, thus you can experience the same sushi making style throughout the omakase.

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Slicing the maguro

Striving for excellence can be felt everywhere,starting from the perfectly seasoned rice and top notch neta, finishing with the impressive skills of Ishiyama-san. I am not going to elaborate too much on the meal, (over-analyzing your food sometimes takes away the pleasure of  the moment), just that the visit to Sushi-ya was a great revelation and would probably make to my 5 top sushi experiences in Tokyo.

P.S. Please read a brilliant post on sushi in Japan by “kayoubidesu”. Very useful and informative, especially if you are acquainted with Tokyo sushi world.

Shako (mantis shrimp)

Shako (mantis shrimp)

Flounder

Flounder

Baby squid with egg yolk sauce

Baby squid with egg yolk sauce

Oyster

Oyster

Katsuo (bonito)

Katsuo (bonito)

Nodo-guro (rosy seabass) "stuffed" with spring onions

Nodoguro (black throat sea perch) “stuffed” with spring onions

Crab

Crab

Baby shrimp with ankimo ( monkfish liver)

Baby shrimp with fish liver

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Swordfish

Ribbon fish

Tachiuo (ribbon fish)

Chutoro

Chutoro (medium fatty tuna)

Otoro (fatty tuna)

Otoro (fatty tuna)

Akami (lean tuna)

Akami (lean tuna)

Squid

Squid

Kuruma ebi ( Imperial prawn)

Kuruma ebi ( Imperial prawn)

Kohada (Gizzard shad)

Kohada (Gizzard shad)

Aji ( Japanese horse mackerel)

Aji ( Japanese horse mackerel)

Torigai ( Japanese cockle)

Torigai ( Japanese cockle)

Hamaguri (hard clam)

Hamaguri (hard clam)

Murasaki uni ( sea urchin)

Murasaki uni ( sea urchin)

Omelette to end the meal

Omelette to end the meal

Takao Ishiyama and the hostess of the restaurant

Takao Ishiyama and the hostess of the restaurant

Sushi Tokami

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Aside from my usual Tokyo sushi spots like Harutaka , this time I was after sushi shops I’ve never been before. I’ve posted already about the exellent Sushi-ya, which quality and chef’s skills wise reminded me greatly of the great Sushi Saito. Now it’s the turn of Tokami. One Michelin starred sushi Tokami (http://sushitokami.3zoku.com/13menu.html) is run by a young, new generation chef Hiroyuki Sato. His father is a sushi master. Prior to Tokami, Hiroyuki-san himself used to be a waiter at a French restaurant. What sets Tokami apart is not only the fact that the chef speaks very good English. It’s that the rice is so different from the rice served at other high end sushi shops in Tokyo.

Hiroyki Sato uses red vinegar, thus, the rice is stronger flavored and, well, more vinegary. Sushi Tokami is partly owned by a tuna broker and red vinegar goes very well with maguro. That might be the explanation for this particular vinegar choice. Before my dinner at Tokami someone had warned me that such rice can be too overpowering for your palate, however, I thought it was not. When sushi rice is concerned, it’s all about the personal preferences and I guess mine are more leaning towards Sukiyabashi Jiro style (very vinegared rice), rather than Mizutani‘s ( mildy vinegared). The absolute highlight of the omakase at Tokami is tuna collar hand roll, rolled just after the otsumami and before the nigiri.

Some other highlights:

Crab

Crab

Antique Korean chest, used at Tokami for storing tuna

Antique Korean chest, used at Tokami for storing tuna

Octopus with fava beans

Octopus with fava beans

Abalone

Abalone

Maguro

Maguro

Mild tasting onion was served instead of the usual gari (ginger)

Mild tasting onion was served instead of the usual gari (ginger)

Making of the tuna roll

Making of the tuna roll

Flounder

Flounder

Squid

Squid

Lean tuna

Lean tuna

Medium fatty tuna

Medium fatty tuna

Fatty tuna

Fatty tuna

Tamago "brûlée" , another bite that Hiroyuki Sato does differently from other Edo-mae sushi chefs in Tokyo.

Tamago “brûlée” , another bite that Hiroyuki Sato does differently from other Edo-mae style sushi chefs in Tokyo.

Chef Hiroyuki Sato

Chef Hiroyuki Sato


On Sushi Kanesaka & dining in Tokyo

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I have special sentiments for Sushi Kanesaka as it was one of the first fine sushi shops I’ve been in Tokyo. When I started travelling there for eating, food tourism, how we know it, was still in its infancy phase in Japan. Things began to change when in 2009 Michelin guide opened the curtain of secrecy and, by awarding endless amount of Michelin stars to Tokyo restaurants, showed the world how extraordinary Tokyo restaurants scene is. Suddenly the world media flocked the Japanese capital (and,later, Kyoto too) marvelling about the beauty of kaiseki or the perfect nigiri. Soon the so called  “foodies” followed.

Kanesaka's -san long term assistant Sanpei-san

Kanesaka’s -san long term assistant Sanpei-san

Of course, there have been always people travelling to Japan and eating there, but I’ve never seen so many foreigners dining independently at the upscale Tokyo restaurants like nowadays. This comes with its good and its bad. Good, because 6 years forward since I first ate at Kanesaka, even the most hidden Tokyo gems are more open to the international visitors. Bad,because gaijins have brought with them some bad habits too. Not bothering to cancel restaurant reservation and simply not showing up would be one of them. Thus, more and more restaurants in Japan ask for a credit card as a guarantee. Like one can imagine, for a 8 or 10 places restaurant no-shows can result in big losses, especially that all the products are freshly bought for that particular meal.

Being ignorant should not considered as “bad” per se, but when someone asked for a cheese course last time I was at Harutaka, I wondered why pay so much money for a meal (over 30 000 Yen per person) and still not even try to understand what it is about. (Harutaka-san dealt with the request in a typical Japanese stoic way. “No,sorry”,- was the answer.)

What brings us back to Kanesaka. Does dealing with foreign tourists and business travellers on the daily basis (who surely are less demanding than Japanese) made Kanesaka-san more lax and less dedicated to his craft? Or is it his rapid business expansion to blame, with already two locations in Singapore,  Tokyo (Palace hotel) and, soon, Macau (and.. an extra table in the original shop). Either explanation might be, my omakase meal at Kanesaka lacked consistency and attention to detail. Some pieces like hairy crab sashimi or medium fatty tuna nigiri were very decent, but the overall experience was chaotic, yet premium priced (what one would pay at the best Tokyo sushi restaurants). Like many foreigners, Kanesaka’s -san friendly attitude was what first attracted me to his restaurant, but as Tokyo becomes more and more open to foreign diners,I think one should judge sushi-ya by its quality rather on how well does the sushi master speak English.

Jumbo yakiniku

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Yakiniku or “grilled meat” is the simplest  way to enjoy beef in Japan. Small bites or thin slices of various parts of beef (and sometimes pork) are grilled on a griddle over woodfire or gas. The job of grilling is usually done by guests themselves, so the experience can be fun too. Even if the origins of yakiniku in Japan are debatable, it is considered as Korean dining. Such Korean staple foods as kimchi will most likely accompany your meal.

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Jumbo yakiniku has been topping Tabelog.com best yakiniku in Tokyo lists since a while now. I believe, there are 4 Jumbo locations in Tokyo. I went to the one in a quite residential Shirokane area. Jumbo Shirokane pride themselves in using only A5 grade Japanese black beef. One superior cut (marinated in their signature pepper sauce)  was exremely striking. It was so fatty that you needed just few seconds to grill it on each side. Fatty yakiniku tip: roll it into a green salad,so the fat doesn’t drip, and, well, you feel less guilty eating it.

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Photo report from Hiyama

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Photos from one Michelin starred sukiyaki (hot pot) restaurant in Tokyo Nihonbashi. It’s been operating since 1935 and must be one of the oldest beef restaurants in Tokyo.

Hiyama: 2-5-1 Nihonbashiningyocho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo,tel. 03-3666-2901

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